Cooking
Microwave Repair in Pittsburgh
Over-the-range, built-in and drawer microwaves are worth fixing more often than countertop ones. Inside, they store dangerous voltage even when unplugged, so this is one appliance to leave closed.
Prefer to type? Put the microwave's model number in the form, and we can look up parts ahead of time.
Two quick steps: what's wrong and where you are. We'll be in touch to set a time.
How a microwave heats, and what fails
A high-voltage transformer, capacitor and diode feed the magnetron, which produces the microwaves. A waveguide channels them into the cavity, where a turntable or stirrer spreads them around. Several door switches cut power to that circuit the instant the door opens.
When a microwave runs, lights up and turns but doesn't heat, the fault is on that high-voltage side: magnetron, diode, capacitor or transformer. When it's completely dead, a blown fuse is common, and on many models that fuse blows because a door switch failed. On inverter models, a board replaces the transformer.
Over-the-range models also have a vent fan, a light over the cooktop, grease and charcoal filters, and a damper at the top. Built-in and drawer microwaves have their own trim and mounting, and drawers add a motor and gears to open and close.
- Over-the-range
- Built-in with trim kit
- Microwave drawers
- Convection and speed microwaves
- Wall oven combinations
- Countertop
Microwave symptoms and their causes
What it's doing, and the likely failure. The high-voltage parts need a technician.
- Runs but doesn't heat
- Magnetron, high-voltage diode or capacitor, transformer, inverter board
- Completely dead
- Blown line fuse, often from a failed door switch; tripped breaker; control board
- Sparks or arcing inside
- Burned waveguide cover, metal or foil in the cavity, damaged cavity paint, metal rack used incorrectly
- Turntable not turning
- Tray off its coupler, worn roller ring, turntable motor
- Vent fan or light not working
- Fan motor, light socket or bulb, control relay
- Keypad unresponsive or some digits missing
- Membrane keypad, display, control board, steam or moisture damage
- Drawer won't open or close
- Drawer motor, gear rack, sensor, debris in the track
What you can check without opening it
- Check the breaker, and reset a GFCI if the microwave is plugged into one.
- Make sure the door closes fully and nothing is stuck in the latch.
- Lift the turntable and reseat it on its coupler and roller ring.
- Find the waveguide cover, a small mica or plastic panel on one inside wall. If it's scorched or greasy, that's often why it's sparking.
- Clean the grease filters on an over-the-range model. Replace the charcoal filter if it's recirculating to the kitchen.
Before you touch anything: Never remove the cabinet of a microwave. Its high-voltage capacitor stores enough energy to kill, and it can stay charged after the plug is out. Don't run it empty or with metal inside, and stop using it if it arcs. Keep it unplugged if the door is damaged or doesn't close properly.
When to call about a microwave
- It runs but doesn't heat.
- It's dead and the breaker is fine.
- It sparks even with a clean waveguide cover.
- The vent fan, cooktop light or keypad has quit on a microwave mounted over the range or in cabinetry.
- The door is damaged or doesn't close properly. Don't use it.
What happens on a microwave visit
The technician discharges the capacitor safely, then tests the high-voltage parts, fuses and door switches. Over-the-range microwaves can be diagnosed in place, but many repairs mean taking it down from the wall, which takes two hands and a clear countertop or range top underneath.
You get the diagnosis and a quote before any work. On a low-cost countertop microwave, we'll tell you if replacing it makes more sense.
Microwave repair or replacement?
Countertop microwaves are usually cheaper to replace than repair. Over-the-range, built-in and drawer models are different: they cost more, a replacement has to fit the mounting plate or cutout, and on over-the-range units, the vent ducting.
Door switches, fuses, fans, lights and diodes are affordable repairs. A magnetron or control board depends on the model's value, and we'll be straight about it.
Why Book Us for Microwave Repair
High voltage handled properly
A microwave holds a dangerous charge even unplugged. The capacitor is safely discharged before any part inside is tested.
Over-the-range units checked as a hood too
An over-the-range microwave is also your kitchen vent, so the fan, light and damper get checked along with the heating circuit.
Honest math on countertop models
Countertop microwaves often cost less to replace than to fix. We'll say so and keep repairs for built-ins and units where the numbers work.
Check the neighborhoods and boroughs we cover, or request a microwave repair.
Microwave Repair in Houses, Apartments and Rentals
Over-the-range microwaves are standard in a lot of apartments, condos and newer kitchens around Pittsburgh, including the high-rises Downtown and in the Strip District, where the microwave is also the range hood. When one fails, the kitchen loses its ventilation too. In older kitchens, a microwave sharing a circuit with the toaster or coffee maker trips breakers often.
How a Microwave Repair Visit Works
Describe the Problem
The brand, the model number if it's handy, and what the appliance is doing. A photo of the rating label is a bonus.
Diagnosis On Site
The technician tests the appliance and its power, water, drain, gas or vent until the failed part is found.
Explanation and Quote
You hear what failed and what the repair costs, then decide. Nothing starts without your OK.
Repair and Test
The part goes in, the appliance runs a cycle, and you see that it works before we leave.
Related Services
Other appliances, brands and places we cover.
Microwave problems we repair
Every microwave fault we diagnose, from no-heat and sparking to vent fan and door problems.
- Microwave Not Heating
- Sparking Inside
- Turntable Not Spinning
- Door Won't Close / Open
- Display Not Working
- Making Loud Noise
- Won't Start
- Sparking Inside Microwave
- Waveguide Cover Burned or Damaged
- Door Switch Failure
- Door Not Closing Properly
- Door Handle Broken
- Turntable Making Grinding Noise
- Control Panel Not Responding
- Runs with Door Open
- Noisy During Operation
- Cooling Fan Not Working
- Burns Food Too Quickly
- Microwave Won't Start
- Interior Light Not Working
- Over-Range Microwave Ventilation Poor
- Grease Filter Clogged
- Charcoal Filter Saturated
- Error Code Displayed
- Intermittent Heating
- Microwave Runs but No Magnetron Power
- Popping or Crackling Noise During Operation
- Overheating and Shutting Off
- Arcing from Metal Rack
- Fan Running After Microwave Is Off
- Some Display Digits Missing
- Sparking from Turntable Tray Area
- Food Heating Unevenly
- Clicking Sounds After Cooking
- Steam or Condensation Inside Microwave
- Burning Plastic Smell from Microwave
- Power Level Selection Not Working
- Inverter Board Failure (Inverter Microwaves)
- Interior Light Flickering
- Microwave Tripping Circuit Breaker
- Water or Moisture in Control Panel
- Error Code Indicating Thermal Fault
- Sensor Cooking Not Working Properly
- Child Lock Won't Disable
- Interior Cavity Coating Peeling
- Ventilation Fan Motor Failure (Over-Range)
- Arcing from Magnetron Antenna
- Runs Only a Few Seconds Then Stops
- Door Won't Latch Closed
- Runs at Wrong Power Level
- Keypad Buttons Sticking
- Vent Damper Stuck Closed or Open
- No Sound / No Beep
- Display Shows Wrong Time After Power Outage
- Grease Fire Risk — Heavy Grease Buildup
- Door Window Cracked
- Unusual Smell After Each Use
- Humidity Sensor Not Working (Sensor Cook)
- Door Seal / Gasket Damaged
- Convection Mode Not Baking Properly
Microwave brands we service
Notes on the microwave brands we see most, followed by every brand we cover.
- GE Appliances microwave repair
- Whirlpool microwave repair
- Samsung microwave repair
- LG microwave repair
- Sharp microwave repair
- Bosch microwave repair
- KitchenAid microwave repair
- Frigidaire microwave repair
More reading on microwaves
Microwave Repair: Questions We Hear
Quick answers to what people ask most. If yours isn't here, bring it up on the phone or type it into the notes box when you book.
Something else on your mind?
Reach out with the brand, the symptom and a model number if you have one. Some questions we can answer on the spot; the rest a technician can check in person.
The light, fan and turntable run on low voltage, while heating depends on the high-voltage circuit: magnetron, diode, capacitor and transformer (or an inverter board). One of those has failed. They're not safe to test at home.
Check for metal, foil or twist ties first, and look at the waveguide cover inside. A burnt or greasy cover causes arcing and can damage the magnetron. If the sparking continues, stop using it until it's been checked.
Often, yes. They cost more than countertop models, and a new one has to fit the mounting plate and vent. Door switches, fuses, fans and diodes are modest repairs.
Many over-the-range microwaves have a thermal sensor that switches the fan on to protect the electronics when the cooktop below gets hot. That's normal. If it switches on with the cooktop cold, the sensor or the control that reads it is suspect.
Yes. Let us know about building access rules, such as service elevator reservations or insurance paperwork, when you book.